Attempts to repair it
Here's the result which gets uglier the closer you get.
|Close up of blotchy resin showing the diffusion of white resin into the graphics.|
A closer inspection also shows lots of voids on the top surface. While I worked on the topsheet to get air bubbles out it seems that the lack of bleeder material on top of the glass gave it zero tolerance. The bumpy breather material then seemed to force all the air bubbles into larger voids areas from which the air could escape.
- Don't skimp on your planning. Might be worth listing all the steps and checking everything is ready prior to pouring the resin. Once the clock starts ticking its easy to get distracted and forget a step or two. This is especially true when there is more than just putting the laminate on.
- Don't rely on non-cured resin to make carbon invisible
- When creating a top sheet on a smooth surface (and especially if vac'ing it) then there seems needs to be breather /bleeder material on one side to give the air bubbles an way to exit. My only concern here in creating pre-cured topsheets is that the breather material may wick too much resin out and leave the top sheet dry. This will need a bit of experimenting.
- Given the time and pressure in these process, colored resin will diffuse into resin that is not fully cured so don't apply a fill color over your graphics until the resin they are encapsulated in is fully cured.
- Where the thickness of reinforcement materials is not uniform across the entire surface of the board then you need to make sure the table surface or the vac bag can conform to the shape so that resin doesn't pool. On the underside of the board there will need to be something that can, in my case, accommodate a 1/2 mm bump. Maybe some dense rubber matting.
- Don't use breather material that is not uniform in density, it will give the board leprosy.