Re-coating the board with epoxy and vac bagging it with the film directly on the board surface did make the surface very shinny ( got rid of the peel ply imprint) but it left the surface a bit wrinkly where the film wasn't tight enough to be pulled flat. I'm thinking next time I'll just leave the peel ply imprint on the board (which actually looks really good in its own right but in this case clouded up the view of the wood grain) or try the other kireforum.com idea of placing a piece of 3-4mm perspex over the top of the vac film when doing a second, finishing bagging. If this can make the surface look like the bottom which came off the table looking shop then it will be worth the expense. One adjustment to the design that this will require it to not have step downs from the top surface to the rails. The board will need to be fairly uniform thickness across the width so that the perspex can conform to it.
Anyhow, the final product is shit loads better than my first attempt and now I know more about what does and doesn't work so hopefully next board will be another step up.
So here's some pictures of the final product!!
|Board #2 with all the hardware installed including the shit hot CrazyFly 2011 footpads.|
|Out of focus but shows the quality of finish that was possible using the perspex rocker table surface. No work was needed on the bottom to make it look shop quality.|
|Close up of the surface finish that resulted from placing vac film directly on board. Notice the wrinkles introduced!|
|Me doing an ape impersonation to test the strength. A very nervous moment! However 75kg in mid section and a bit of flex but not as much as it looks cause 4.5cm of it was already there.|